MX-5 OC Forum

Hints and tips and replacement procedure at bottom of thread.

Right-oh the clutch will definitely need replacing soon. I've got a friendly mechanic who'll let me use their lift and tools and their extra pair of hands for a small gift of beer or similar, so will go that route I think, instead of doing it on the drive!

Questions:

1) While I'm in there...what's to do? So far I have on the list: clutch + release bearing, gearbox oil (washers), engine rear oil seal, spigot bearing... Is there an engine to gearbox gasket or does it just need gunk? Is there anything else I should replace while I'm there or any other consumables I'll find I need (I always discover an o-ring or something I should have ordered!)

2) Which clutch? Just for my usual 'spirited road driving' use... The Exedy standard kit is cheap, but is it rubbish? Sachs is pricey but I know it'll be good. But then could I get away with just the friction plate and thrust bearing? In which case the genuine Mazda would work out similar price. Does anyone know who makes the Mazda ones? Probably Sachs... :o/

3) Aside from adjusting at the pedal (which has failed to cure the occasional slippage) is there any other adjustment (or bodge) I can do to put off the inevitable for a little while?

victormeldrew:

Questions:

1) While I'm in there...what's to do? So far I have on the list: clutch + release bearing, gearbox oil (washers), engine rear oil seal, spigot bearing... Is there an engine to gearbox gasket or does it just need gunk? Is there anything else I should replace while I'm there or any other consumables I'll find I need (I always discover an o-ring or something I should have ordered!)

I reckon you've got it all there, maybe add the gear lever dust boot if you've not done it. Some people may say to change the gearbox input shaft oil seal while the box is out. The flywheel bolts should be threadlocked into the crank on re-fitting. There is no need to seal the engine to the gearbox.

victormeldrew:

2) Which clutch? Just for my usual 'spirited road driving' use... The Exedy standard kit is cheap, but is it rubbish? Sachs is pricey but I know it'll be good. But then could I get away with just the friction plate and thrust bearing? In which case the genuine Mazda would work out similar price. Does anyone know who makes the Mazda ones? Probably Sachs... :o/

I'd get a genuine Mazda one, they are made by Exedy.

victormeldrew:

3) Aside from adjusting at the pedal (which has failed to cure the occasional slippage) is there any other adjustment (or bodge) I can do to put off the inevitable for a little while?

Nope.

Thanks for the advice. So is the aftermarket Exedy standard clutch (£90 for the kit on mx5parts) the same part as the 'Mazda Genuine' Exedy (nearly double the price)? To be fair I've never really needed to replace a clutch cover the times I've done it on other cars (only the friction plate and bearing), but they just tend to come in kits. If the Mazda plate is better quality I might just get that and the bearing and hope for the best on the cover. A bit of emery paper normally fixes them right up anyway.

Yeah I'll do the input shaft oil seal then...they're pretty cheap. And I didn't think of the dust boot...I've seen mine and it's pretty perished.

I've also noticed that the exhaust needs to come off (according to the workshop manual) to get the gearbox out - so a new downpipe/exhaust gasket is probably wise.

I didn't realise that my sketchy gearlever boots are the reason for my notchy gearchange and warm coke cans... Thanks for the tip!

 I'd definitely do the cover, even if the drive face is ok on the old one, a new one is usually so much smoother and nicer to use

Right then, I'll try to gather together some hints and tips as there isn't a clutch replacement FAQ yet. When I do it I'll take some pics along the way too. So far:

Shopping List:

At least: a suitable clutch kit (with thrust bearing), clutch spiggot bearing, downpipe/exhaust gasket.A clutch alignment tool makes everything much easier.

While you're in there, you may as well do: Engine rear oil seal and gearbox input shaft oil seal (and gasket for the cover), as these are a few pounds and need the gearbox out to do them.

If your gearlever boots are worn (notchy gear shifts and warm console), or your clutch slave cylinder and pipe (spongey pedal), it's easier to do these at the same time, but not necessary as they can be done later without removing the gearbox again.

General procedure:

Remove gearlever knob, centre console, gearlever gaitor and boots, and gearlever. Remove slave cylinder (leave attached to pipe unless it's to be replaced), starter motor, propshaft, exhaust, detach wiring loom from gearbox, remove gearbox. Remove flywheel, replace clutch cover and plate, thrust bearing and spiggot bearing, replace engine rear oil seal, and reassemble. Remove input shaft cover, replace oil seal, renew gasket and replace cover. Reassemble in reverse order.

Pics to follow.