MX-5 OC Forum

 I tried getting this oil from my local Ford dealer this afternoon and I may as well have been talking to a brick wall.

After a 10 minute wait while the one parts man talked on his mobile he didn't really want to know unless I had the reg number of the Ford car or type of Ford car I wanted the oil for  .

Has anyone got the part number of this oil so they have no excuse not to serve me? I'm going back tomorrow with a print out of the spec sheet for the oil but a part number will be even better.

Help!!!!

Martin

Try this.......XT-M5-QS

Or scroll through this list http://www.scribd.com/doc/19215649/Motor-Craft-Ford-Oils

Mick

MickAP:

Try this.......XT-M5-QS

Anyone know how much oil is required for the Mk2.5 6 speed gearbox?

Thanks Mick. I had seen that part number but wasn't sure if it was in use over here by Ford of Europe, thought it may be a Ford of America part number only.

I'll see what they say at the dealer tomorrow.

Martin.

shoestring:

MickAP:

Try this.......XT-M5-QS

Anyone know how much oil is required for the Mk2.5 6 speed gearbox?

Well my 6 speed Mk2 took 2 Ltrs, same for the Mk2.5 I believe.

Just take a peek at this guide for the 6 speed, you don't want to undo the wrong plug  http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/forum/forums/t/16199.aspx

Mick

Bannedbiker:

Thanks Mick. I had seen that part number but wasn't sure if it was in use over here by Ford of Europe, thought it may be a Ford of America part number only.

I'll see what they say at the dealer tomorrow.

Martin.

Use part number WSD-M2C200-C, I think the XT*** number is a Ford of America number.

Picture of bottle and spec:

A big THANK YOU to all who have answered about the oil part number. I've printed it off and will be sticking it up the left nostril of a Ford partsman tomorrow .

Thank you again, I knew I'd get an answer on here.

Martin.

Castrol fully synthetic Syntrans 75W90 GL4 is also very good, over the counter at Halfords about £12 litre, for anyone without a helpful Ford dealer handy.

That warning post about the 6 speed box only applies to earlier Mk2/2.5 box btw. Mk3 is different for anyone doing that one and there's also oil in the turret on Mk3 (not in the earlier box) so you need 2.1L + 150ml. An oil syringe from Machine Mart or similar is very worthwhile for about £10 if you're doing it yourself. Consider the back axle too as it only takes a few more minutes once jacked up, but it needs GL5 oil.

MickAP:

Well my 6 speed Mk2 took 2 Ltrs, same for the Mk2.5 I believe.

Thanks Mick for the info

I was going to post "get the clutch adjusted" until I got to that bit in the thread

for all non mk3 owners, changing the shift boots (both) really helps the gearchange.  They are about £25 each from autolink but well worth it

for the top gaiter I've gone for one of doctor mx fives silicone ones which you can find here

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gear-lever-rubber-shift-boot-upper-Mazda-MX5-gearshift-gaiter-/320912081677?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4ab7d9c30d#ht_822wt_1037

mine's a 6 speed mk2.5

I don't drive a 6 speed, but that shouldn't make a difference.

 Have you tried a racing change?  It needs practice, but it may help.

Dip the clutch & go to neutral, keeping your foot on the accelerator the whole time, then release the clutch, then dip again & engage higher gear.

This has the effect of keeping the revs up so you don't get that jerk.

It needs to be done quickly, hence the practice.

Sorry for all this if you know what a racing change is.

Sheila

SAMBabb:

Dip the clutch & go to neutral, keeping your foot on the accelerator the whole time, then release the clutch, then dip again & engage higher gear.

Do you mean when changing down - ie. a lower gear?   I think your wording reads as when changing up.

This has a few names, such as 'sustained rev' or 'matched rev' gear changing.  Then you can get into double de-clutching and also on to the heel & toe technique (all of which I use constantly, which one depending on the circumstances).

No. Most people blip the accelerator when changing down, it helps protect the clutch, reducing wear.

I'm not following you, are you talking about blipping when changing up or down?  Only your wording could be taken to apply to either.

Does that not put more strain on the clutch plate, as you'll be engaging the clutch with the revs quite high?

The jerk Ive experienced doesn't actually feel like its a problem with the revs dropping; after I've changed gear I can smoothly re-enage the clutch and accelerate.

What I'm feeling seems to be more related to when I disenagage the clutch at high revs. This is quite hard to explain, but I've helped alleviate it by doing a couple of things:

- Firstly, I consiously position my right foot a bit further back on the carpet, so I'm pressing the accelerator with my toes rather than the ball of my foot. This means I can come completely off the accelerator much more quickly and completely. My theory is that I might have been dipping the clutch before I'd come off the accelerator fully, so the lurch was being cause by the engine revs spiking as the clutch plates seperate.

-Secondly I'm trying to discipline my clutch foot. When driving at maximum attack, I'm stamping down on the clutch in an effort to change up quickly. I'm now making a conscious effort to ensure I use the clutch smoothly. Slow is smooth, smooth is fast, as they* say. The combined fact that I'm pressing the clutch in very quickly and not lifting my foot off the gas as above is I think the prime cause of bad changes.

I have no problem driving smoothly day to day, it's only when Im accelerating hard in lower gears (from 1st > 2nd, 2nd > 3rd) that I find myself getting jerky. But, since the clutch adjustment and fluid change, things are much better, so I will continue to practice :D

*The wizards.