MX-5 OC Forum

Hi all, I'm in the process of replacing all 4 suspension springs. Firstly I made sure all the bolts on all 4 suspension units (1989) could be moved and that they weren't sezied solid. So far so good. Problem accured when I tried to remove the rear low suspension unit bolt. It has unscrewed fully but I can't get a grip on it to pull it out (well I've got a pair of mole grips on it but it's free to rotate but won't move in or out and they slip off when hit). I think that the bolt is bent due to years of the car bottoming out. It's annoying because I can't get the bolt back into place so the car is now standed.

How would you proceed? everything is free, I think the bolt is slightly bent and picking up on the bearing sleave of the suspension unit. I would love to drive it out but there isn't a way of getting on the threaded end of the bolt as it's in side the rear wishbone, which is pretty much closed.

Try compressing the spring with a couple of spring compressors to take the load off the shock. You might be able to get a set of grips on the exposed threaded part of the bolt, and hit nine bells out of that. Sounds like the bolt is banjaxed anyhow. Presumably you are sure that the captive nut inside the wishbone hasn't broken adrift.

Or, you are going to have to remove the lower wishbone with the shock attached.

I've got spring compressor clamps on the spring, car is on axel stands, anit roll bar is disconnected, and I'm using the scissor (spelling?) jack to unload it as nessecary. The threads are inside the wishbone, but have unwound out of the threaded part of the wishbone (finger told me so).  but as soon as they are out of the wishbone the bolt stops it's travel out of the suspension unit, but is free to rotate.

Removing the lower wishbone is a good idea, but it's still not further forward as i can not do any more with it.

Thanks.

 As AT  suggested the captive nut has come loose .  Remove the wishbone and hold the nut with a spanner . It is not easy but it is doable .

JJ.

If you think its jamming up on the lower shock eye/bush, because the shock has dropped, a turn or so on the shock rod nut (top mount) might pull the shock up enough. In fact, I would tighten that nut as much as possible, because the wishbone can always be raised a bit  (though when you reassemble it with the new springs, you torque it, not go by the number of turns required, since if its too tight, the hardened steel shock shaft will cut the top mount). If you've gotten a jack under the wishbone, try slackening it off a bit. The lower shock bolt can sometimes hang up a bit, but I've always managed to wiggle it free by judicious use of a tyre jack under the wishbone.

I'm slowly coming to terms with the idea of the captive nut spinning on both rear low suspention units, I stuck my finger up inside and felt an internal plat with a hole in it, it's in the location of where the end of the threaded bolt would be, I took this as being the threaded retainer part of the wishbone, but I think I'm wrong it thinking that. I can not feel any sort of nut, how do you get into the wishbone to get on to it. My 5 is a Mk1 Eunos.

When I rotate the bolt it does feel as though there is a captive nut bumping over where it was held inplace (snaped weld).

How long are the lower suspension bolts,so I can measure and make a decission as to wheather I feel that mine are still in place and that the car is still safe to drive, all be it with lowered springs.

 If you can feel the captive nut turning , then the bolt must still be engaged with the nut . The safety matter is for you to judge .

I can tell you that when the same thing happened to me , the bolt was fully engaged with the nut and it was difficult holding the nut and removing the bolt . The nut is square not hexagon .

You rely on your own judgement as to the safety .

BOL ,

JJ .

sand:

 If you can feel the captive nut turning , then the bolt must still be engaged with the nut . The safety matter is for you to judge .

I can tell you that when the same thing happened to me , the bolt was fully engaged with the nut and it was difficult holding the nut and removing the bolt . The nut is square not hexagon .

You rely on your own judgement as to the safety .

BOL ,

JJ .

Cheers, yes its my call. how long was the bolt, jusy wondering if you have a spare knocking around to measure. How did you get a grip on the nut and is it inside the Wishbone?

Many thanks Bob.

Some useful threads that might be of help:

http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/forum/forums/p/20419/125148

http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=202044

You might get lucky in jamming a bar against one of the "flats" on the captive nut, via one of the pressing holes on the wishbone, rather than having to open up the wishbone. If you can retighten the bolt, well, it should be ok, but thats ultimately a decision you need to make yourself. I don't know how MOT inspectors view muller'd wishbones, but if I had to open one up to remove the lower shock bolt, I'd be wanting to fit a replacement sooner rather than later. Good used ones aren't too much money; though Autolink are a bit pricey though for reconditioned items; £120 (rebushed with pattern polybushes, not sure how that would go with the rest of the aged bushes on the car). MX5parts has brand new (though bushless) rear lowers for £110.

 Sorry no spare bolt , I cut the back off the jaw of a spanner so that it would fit through the hole .

Fitted a standard nut and a spring washer on the original bolt .

JJ.

Thanks for your help, it's given me more of an understanding of whats going on inside there. I don't like the sound of hacking into the Wishbone nor buying two rear replacement. Looks like a weekend taken up by the 5 then with both Wishbones coming off. or jacked up high enough to get underneath or take it down local garage and put mt hand into me pocket.

well I'll be leaving for work soon, so I thought I better give it the best look over before I use it, I jacked it high and put stands under it, but I really hate going under it when its on stands and jack. Followed the bolt to where I thought it would go, but it stops short. Then, I saw that square nut "Thank God for that I thought" in a nasty cage which bends out of the way when the bolt is rotated. The car is 100% safe to drive. I feel much better now, going to get that off ASAP and replace it with a nylon lock nut on refit.

Thank again guys.

I've had to destroy the nuts a bit with the dremel, rather than the wishbone, but the two rear suspension units are now off.

help needed please, have taken front and rear springs off car which are the same size. The problem I now have is that I have bought standard front and rear springs, two springs are longer am I right in assuming the longer springs go on the front.

Longer ones go on the rear.

Factory spring specs here:

http://users.telenet.be/miata/english/suspension/Springs.htm

1989 Roadster should be the same as a 1990 Miata.